Whether you're just beginning your first painting project or embarking on your tenth, improve your painting skills with this expert advice.
Painting double-hung windows Move each sash to the center of its track. First, paint the inside sash, starting with the mullions, then moving to the frame. Don't paint the top edge of the inside sash (you'll use it to move the sash). Next, paint the top half of the outside sash, again starting with the mullions, then paint the frame.
Painting panel doors First, remove all hardware or cover it with masking tape. If paint does get on metal parts, remove it immediately with a soft cloth. Start by painting the panels, working from top to bottom. For each panel, paint the panel molding first, then the interior, using up and down strokes with your brush. Next, paint the rest of the door, finishing with the outer edges. If the door swings out, paint the hinged edge. If the door swings in, paint the lock-side edge.
Setting up to paint popcorn ceilings Spraying is the most effective way to paint a popcorn ceiling — or any other textured ceiling. Begin by taping the entire ceiling edge with 2 inch masking tape. Place the tape right up against the ceiling while applying light pressure on the top half of the tape, so that it sticks to the wall. Now, partially unfold some 3/4 mil polysheeting and begin to tuck it under the masking tape and proceed to hang polysheeting around the entire room. Be sure to apply ample pressure at this point, so that the tape holds the weight of the polysheeting. Now you are ready to completely unfold the polysheeting. Allow it to drape right onto the floor and towards the center of the room. Place a large, heavy drop in the center of the room to cover the floor and keep the polysheeting from blowing up while spraying. Cut a small slit in the polysheeting near a doorway to create an entrance into the room. You are now ready to start spraying.
Cutting-in the bottom of exterior walls quickly
The fastest way to cut-in the bottom of exterior walls is to use the "dry-brush" technique. First, grab a 3 inch or 4 inch wall brush and a cardboard shield. Next, place the cardboard shield on the ground and push it up against the wall. Get some paint on your brush and begin to apply paint on the wall approximately 4-6 inches above the cardboard shield. As your brush begins to run out of paint, begin painting closer and closer to the ground (towards the cardboard shield). Once you reach the card- board shield, your brush should be relatively "dry" (almost out of paint). Use the cardboard shield to create a straight, clean painted line along the bottom of the wall. Although your brush may touch the shield, the fact that your brush is "dry" will prevent any excess paint from running onto the ground.
Improving productivity by pre-wetting brushes and rollers Before you start applying paint with a brush or roller, pre-wet it. By pre-wetting your tools, they will accept and apply paint more readily. This will improve your production time. Think about it this way: If you put shampoo in your hair before you wet it, the hair would mat up and take longer to rinse out. The same thing happens with brushes and roller covers. Depending upon what type of paint (water-based or oil-based) you plan to use, pre-wet your tools with either water or paint thinner.
Filtering paint while spraying to save time and money
How often does your spray tip clog? If it happens often, it's costing you time and money. Using filters to prevent tip clogs is the best cure. It may take a little more time to prepare your paint and set up your equipment, but once you start spraying, you can continue to apply paint at a good pace. Start by straining your paint with a strainer bag. Then, make sure your sprayer has a suction tube and pump filter. The next filter should be in the airless gun handle. Finally, use a tip filter. If your sprayer is equipped with all of these filters, tip clogs should be minimized. Don't forget to clean the filters regularly. Clogged filters will stop the flow of paint.
Working with window glazing Many homes have older style casement windows that use window glazing to keep the glass panes in place. Some paint jobs require that deteriorated glazing be replaced. Have you ever worked with window glazing? It sure is sticky. How can you make this job easier? Before you start a glazing job, make sure you have some plaster-of-paris. Use a putty knife to scrape some window glazing out of the can. Next, put a small amount of plaster-of-paris on your hands. Then, knead the plaster-of- paris into the window glazing. This will minimize the tackiness and make it easier to work with the window glazing.
Craftsmanship and quality are important to your business. And achieving them is easier than you think. Use these tips to add those extra touches to your jobs.
Painting dark paneling Dark wood paneling can be painted as long as you prepare the surface properly. At a minimum, you'll have to wash and rinse the paneling. A light sanding is advisable to remove the shine. A stain-blocking primer should be used to guard against the possibility of discoloration from the paneling bleeding through the finish coat.
Painting over vinyl wallcovering
Use caution when applying an oil-based paint over vinyl wallcovering. Plasticizers in the vinyl can cause drying problems with oil-based paints. If an oil-based finish is desired, a latex primer must first be used.
Avoid using aluminum paint on handrails
Aluminum paints that make use of leafing-type aluminum pigments should not be used on high contact areas, such as doors, windows and handrails. The aluminum pigment tends to rub off upon abrasion and will end up on the skin or clothing.
Selecting the right sandpaper When sanding between coats of paint, the grit of the sandpaper is important. Coarse sandpaper (i.e., #80 grit or less) will likely scratch the surface, and the scratch marks may show through the next coat of paint, especially if a glossy finish is used. On the other hand, if grit is too fine, the sandpaper will plug up. A grit like #120 is just right for sanding between coats of paint. A No-Fil sandpaper with an aluminum oxide grain that resists loading is highly recommended.
Back-rolling to improve look and performance A first coat applied by airless spray, followed immediately by back-rolling, is a common professional technique. The spray application gets the paint onto the surface quickly and back-rolling spreads it out evenly and works it into the surface. This provides an even application of the paint and helps ensure good bonding of the paint to the surface. At the same time, touch-up on the rolled surface is less likely to be noticeable. Back-rolling (or back-brushing) also helps to force the paint into hairline cracks typical of many wood or stucco exteriors, thereby improving durability.
Protecting shrubs and plants Use drop cloths instead of plastic (polyethylene) sheeting to protect shrubs and plants. The sun can heat the air underneath the sheeting and cause serious harm to shrubs and plants. Drape shrubs and plants just prior to painting and remove drapes as soon as possible. This will lessen damage to the foliage.
Feathering edges when sanding to improve appearance and durability Scraping is the most common and effective method to remove loose paint from various surfaces. Coarse sandpapers (e.g., #80 grit) are also effective. However, it is critical to "feather" or smooth out any rough spots. Other times you are sanding between two coats of paint. In either case, you should not be able to feel any difference in the surface profile if you pass your fingers over the sanded areas. If done well, you should not be able to see the sanded areas when new paint is applied. With properly feathered edges, there is less risk that any loose paint will reappear soon after painting.
Improving the appearance of caulking jobs Almost every paint job will require some degree of caulking work. More importantly, the quality of the caulking job can affect the appearance of the overall paint job. An ideal way to apply caulking so that it looks smooth is to keep your fingers wet. For example, imagine you are caulking newly installed chair rails. First, make sure you have a small bucket of water and a rag handy. Next, apply a bead of caulking. Immediately after the caulking is applied, get your middle or index finger wet and, ever so lightly, pass it right over the bead of caulking. By doing so, the water from your finger will smooth out the caulking. If done properly, no lines caused by the caulking should be visible when paint is applied. Be careful! Do not use too much water or mistakenly remove any caulking, because this may cause the caulking to crack.
Painting a sharp, clean stripe Have you ever looked closely at a painted stripe and noticed that paint seeped under the masking tape? This makes the stripe look sloppy. To prevent this from occurring, paint the stripe using the original wall color first. This fills any gaps that exist underneath the tape with the wall color. Then paint the actual stripe color. Before the stripe completely dries, remove the tape. Slowly pull it away from the stripe. The result is a sharp, clean-looking stripe.
Working safely should always be a top priority. Even small mishaps can affect your productivity and your reputation, so practice safe painting with our safety tips below.
Handling acids with care
When mixing acid (e.g., muriatic and phosphoric) with water, always pour the acid into the water, not vice-versa. If water were added to the acid, splashing could occur. Always wear rubber gloves and goggles when handling acids. Be sure to keep them out of the reach of children.
Disposing of solvent-soaked rags
Rags that have been soaked in paint thinner or solvents, or have been used to apply oil-based stains, must be spread out to dry or soaked in water and put in a fireproof container. Solvent-soaked rags may catch fire by spontaneous combustion if not disposed of properly.
Protecting your eyes
There are many steps involved in a painting project, such as scraping, sanding and painting, when small foreign objects can become dislodged and fly into your eyes. Wood fibers and stucco are quite often the culprits. Eye protection is strongly recommended at all times while on the job.
Whether you're working for a client or painting your own house, sometimes it's the little things that can determine how well a project turns out. Keep your projects running smoothly with our troubleshooting tips below.
Prevent property damage when pressure washing exterior walls
Pressure washing enhances the quality of any exterior paint job. However, special care should be taken to prevent property damage when pressure washing is performed. The ideal situation is to make sure someone is inside monitoring the interior of the home and alerting you to any problems with water entering the home. This commonly occurs around doors and windows. If this precaution is not taken, extensive damage could occur.
Factors that influence touch-up
Touch–up is affected by a number of factors including:
- Temperature — Touching up at different temperatures versus that of the original paint application may result in color differences.
- Gloss — As a general rule, flat paints touch up better than paints with higher gloss. Latex paints touch up better than alkyds because there is much less change in gloss and color upon aging.
- Color — Dark colors are harder to touch up because they are more sensitive than light colors to minor variations in the porosity of the surface.
- Applicator — Touch-up is better when applied using the same method as that of the original application.
- Batch — Using the original batch for any future touch-up produces better results.
Temperature and dry fall coatings
Temperature should always be considered when applying dry fall coatings. In low temperatures, the dry time is delayed and the overspray remains wet. Pulling equipment or walking on the overspray in these conditions can cause the paint to stick to the floor.
On the other hand, when using dry fall coatings in hot weather, the dry time is accelerated. In this case, to allow good adhesion, care must be taken to ensure the paint applied lands wet on the surface being painted. Dry fall coatings are extremely fast drying, and if the coating is partially dry when it hits the surface being painted, poor adhesion will result. A good practice is to hold the gun at the proper distance from the surface being painted, normally 12".
How do you tell if a surface was painted with water-based or oil-based paint?
Knowing if a surface was painted with water-based or oil-based paint is important. Experienced painting professionals will say that they can determine the paint type by just looking at a finish or touching it. There are also other ways to find out: If the paint is peeling, pull off a piece and bend it. If it cracks, it is most likely an oil-based paint. If it seems flexible, it is probably a water-based paint. Another way to check is to sand a small portion of the surface. If the paint easily sands into a fine powder, it is most likely an oil-based paint. Water-based paints have a tendency to resist sanding, and they gum up the sandpaper. If these methods fail, rub a small section of the surface with a cloth wet with lacquer thinner. If it significantly softens, it is most likely a water-based paint. An oil-based paint will most likely not be affected by the solvent. Be sure to use appropriate safety practices when using lacquer thinner.
Determining the number of paint coats applied to a surface
To determine the number of coats in a peeling paint chip, measure the thickness of the paint chip with a micrometer. Dividing the thickness by 1.5 (average film thickness per coat) will give a good indication of the number of coats.
Whether you're just beginning your first painting project or embarking on your tenth, improve your painting skills with this expert advice.
Painting double-hung windows Move each sash to the center of its track. First, paint the inside sash, starting with the mullions, then moving to the frame. Don't paint the top edge of the inside sash (you'll use it to move the sash). Next, paint the top half of the outside sash, again starting with the mullions, then paint the frame.
Painting panel doors First, remove all hardware or cover it with masking tape. If paint does get on metal parts, remove it immediately with a soft cloth. Start by painting the panels, working from top to bottom. For each panel, paint the panel molding first, then the interior, using up and down strokes with your brush. Next, paint the rest of the door, finishing with the outer edges. If the door swings out, paint the hinged edge. If the door swings in, paint the lock-side edge.
Setting up to paint popcorn ceilings Spraying is the most effective way to paint a popcorn ceiling — or any other textured ceiling. Begin by taping the entire ceiling edge with 2 inch masking tape. Place the tape right up against the ceiling while applying light pressure on the top half of the tape, so that it sticks to the wall. Now, partially unfold some 3/4 mil polysheeting and begin to tuck it under the masking tape and proceed to hang polysheeting around the entire room. Be sure to apply ample pressure at this point, so that the tape holds the weight of the polysheeting. Now you are ready to completely unfold the polysheeting. Allow it to drape right onto the floor and towards the center of the room. Place a large, heavy drop in the center of the room to cover the floor and keep the polysheeting from blowing up while spraying. Cut a small slit in the polysheeting near a doorway to create an entrance into the room. You are now ready to start spraying.
Cutting-in the bottom of exterior walls quickly
The fastest way to cut-in the bottom of exterior walls is to use the "dry-brush" technique. First, grab a 3 inch or 4 inch wall brush and a cardboard shield. Next, place the cardboard shield on the ground and push it up against the wall. Get some paint on your brush and begin to apply paint on the wall approximately 4-6 inches above the cardboard shield. As your brush begins to run out of paint, begin painting closer and closer to the ground (towards the cardboard shield). Once you reach the card- board shield, your brush should be relatively "dry" (almost out of paint). Use the cardboard shield to create a straight, clean painted line along the bottom of the wall. Although your brush may touch the shield, the fact that your brush is "dry" will prevent any excess paint from running onto the ground.
Improving productivity by pre-wetting brushes and rollers Before you start applying paint with a brush or roller, pre-wet it. By pre-wetting your tools, they will accept and apply paint more readily. This will improve your production time. Think about it this way: If you put shampoo in your hair before you wet it, the hair would mat up and take longer to rinse out. The same thing happens with brushes and roller covers. Depending upon what type of paint (water-based or oil-based) you plan to use, pre-wet your tools with either water or paint thinner.
Filtering paint while spraying to save time and money
How often does your spray tip clog? If it happens often, it's costing you time and money. Using filters to prevent tip clogs is the best cure. It may take a little more time to prepare your paint and set up your equipment, but once you start spraying, you can continue to apply paint at a good pace. Start by straining your paint with a strainer bag. Then, make sure your sprayer has a suction tube and pump filter. The next filter should be in the airless gun handle. Finally, use a tip filter. If your sprayer is equipped with all of these filters, tip clogs should be minimized. Don't forget to clean the filters regularly. Clogged filters will stop the flow of paint.
Working with window glazing Many homes have older style casement windows that use window glazing to keep the glass panes in place. Some paint jobs require that deteriorated glazing be replaced. Have you ever worked with window glazing? It sure is sticky. How can you make this job easier? Before you start a glazing job, make sure you have some plaster-of-paris. Use a putty knife to scrape some window glazing out of the can. Next, put a small amount of plaster-of-paris on your hands. Then, knead the plaster-of- paris into the window glazing. This will minimize the tackiness and make it easier to work with the window glazing.
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